Just like Singapore and Japan, Taiwan is gradually moving its way up to one of the star-studded culinary countries in Asia. Take Ad Astra Taipei for instance, under Chef Kevin Rose's guidance, this contemporary fine dining establishment received its first Michelin star only within 10 months of opening date.
Chef Kevin Rose previous experience including Daniel, a three Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City, where he worked under famed Chef Daniel Boulud for five years. Chef Kevin Rose also worked at another Michelin-starred restaurant Atera under Chef Ronny Emborg.
The CV looks quite impressive, and so does Chef Kevin Rose's endless creative dishes presented at Ad Astra, his new culinary adventure in Taiwan Taipei. And that's why the star shined upon this place in such a speedy time.
In fact, not only Ad Astra, Taiwan has become more and more welcoming for many international talents. There're La Vie by Thomas Bühner, Impromptu by Paul Lee, INITA by Kunihiro Hagimoto, and ZEA by Joaquin Elizondo Hourbeigt, and the list goes on.
There are many gourmands, so called foodies who are more than willing to pay for the food, the drinks, the experience, and even the visions that these skilled chefs would bring to the table. The other way around, Taiwan provides a nurturing place, a market not yet overly saturated for chefs to come and fight for a spot of their own. I call it a win win situation for both parties.
So I'm more than happy to see Ad Astra getting its star. In fact, since its opening, this place has already become one of the hardest restaurants to get a reservation in Taipei. As customers, we love the food and drinks right from the beginning. So that star just like an additional crown on the head, more so an encouragement and recognition from the professional field.
And thanks to my friends, not only they got the reservation for a total of four people, but also spots at Chef's table. Therefore, I was also to try out full-on 14-course chef's menu.
As an extra advantage, usually Ad Astra holds two rounds during dinner. In order to do that, the length of service has to be shortened, which translate to 10-course tasting menu. But we got the full experience, and there's no time limit. We just need to show up between 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. and can dine all the way till restaurant closed.
While the gentlemen chose to enjoy their meal with wine pairing, us ladies decided to go with the non-alcoholic route. Ad Astra provided two non-alcoholic pairings, one is mocktail and the other is tea.
We got the mocktail pairing, in which I'll focus more here.
Our friend was joking about the algae-looking thing floating on top of our mocktails. These were in fact dill oil. Within the drink there were also cardamom, juniper, and green peppercorn. So one could imagine the herbal woody note. Together with its icy cold temperature serving as first drink, which just came at the right time providing a cooling effect compared to the scorching heat outside.
"Sudachi," a small citrus from Tokushima Prefecture in Japan. Such a petite and cute-looking container holds Hokkaido scallop, nori sheet, and shichimi togarashi -
Before digging in, remember to squeeze the sudachi cap on the side to add an instant boost of citrusy aroma. A little side note, such citrus is better consumed while still green, once turning yellow, it means overripe and some aroma has been lost.
Crispy waffle, sea urchin, and Serrano ham -
Consider this a signature dish from Ad Astra. Diners love it so much, so the Chef intentionally kept this dish on the menu for such extended period of time. My friends are regulars there too, what they told me is that they'll be very sad if this dish has been taken away.
Unlike the waffle we are familiar with, the waffle here had a very airy yet crispy texture. Served as a carrier, Chef put creamy sea urchin and umami-packed Serrano ham on top. Just by imagining these three main components together, it's hard not to be tasty to begin with. Not mentioning soubise sauce, like an oniony béchamel sauce, was added to round up the flavors.
Moving on to one of my top three favorites of the night -
Very thin tart filled with yellowtail and coated with fried carrot on top. With jalapeño, cilantro, and lemon peel, this dish definitely speaks South American tone. To make it more refined, there's hay smoked cream cheese on the bottom.
I do admit I prefer everything ceviche-like seasonings. But what surprised me the most is the use of carrot. Turning somewhat unpopular ingredient to this bright orange beauty, also provided a thin crispy touch to the bite. Not just the taste, the texture, but the aesthetic behind truly worth applauding.
Second mocktail pairing celery sour -
An interesting use of some of the "savory" ingredients such as celery juice and kombu stock. Paired with green apple juice to add a bit of acidity and fruity aroma.
Wonton in Chinese stock -
One might never guess the filling of the wonton. Surprise surprise, monkfish liver was used to create a fuller creamy bite. The stock was cooked with dried shrimps and old hen. It's a popular choice for Taiwanese to make a nutritious soup with old hen due to its high protein and phospholipid content.
Of course there're more than just the wonton and the stock. On the bottom you'll find some homemade pickled mustard green bits, also infused some sea buckthorn oil within. Considering all the characteristics from these ingredients, this is one hella nutritious soup dish.
Arc clam from Kumamoto prefecture, water bamboo shoot, tarragon foam, cucumber flower -
Also a dot of black vinegar sauce on the top right corner.
Third mocktail pairing -
Quite the portion because this one will have to sustain for the next four following dishes. A bit fizzy from the tonic water, also a toasted woody aroma coming from coffee beans being soaked in grape juice, which will add some tannin feel to it.
Koji rice marinated squid -
If you're not too familiar with koji, it's one of the common Japanese ingredients used in making miso, soy sauce, vinegar, etc. And koji rice basically means steamed rice inoculated with koji mold. Don't be scared, it's actually packed with healthy enzymes and probiotics, making it one of the superfoods in Japan.
I do too, use koji rice to marinate chicken or fish once a long while. It'll add a mild salty and savory aroma to the ingredient, especially delicious when follow up with grilling or baking method. The heat will condense and enhance the flavor to my opinion.
So on top of koji rice marinated squid, there're also loofah and clam stock on the bottom, shiso and myoga on top. By the way, myoga is also high in potassium and dietary fiber. Man, I'm not the only one feeling some body power being boosted up after dining at Ad Astra?
We've already got something nourishing, and now move on to a dish so pleasing to the eye -
Isn't it just like an artwork? The colors are so vibrant, and so does the aroma. You can definitely smell saffron there, also a hint of Shaoxing Huadiao wine.
Next course is also fish, Japanese kinki fish, also known as channel rockfish -
Despite the somewhat small-looking size, kinki fish is one of the higher-end expensive fish varieties in Japan. Its flesh is delicate and had a mild sweet note.
From the appearance, I'm at least 70% sure the fish was aged first before the actual cooking step. What presented in front of us was a piece of seared fillet, served with red bell pepper purée on the side, also toasted hazelnuts and some cauliflower. All tied up with brown butter and white miso.
Very strong buttery aroma, but slightly held back with a mild brush of white miso. Usually I would say the butter is way too strong for the fish, but this time it kind of compliment the texture of "seared" kinki. Never had kinki with such heavy dose of butter, glad it was a pleasant experience.
Ad Astra branded caviar, just a fun packaging though, the caviar was actually obtained from a premium food emporium called Gourmet Boutique -
And the caviar can be found inside this chawamushi egg custard dish. The puffed rice was added tableside to keep its crispiness. The use of crispy rice was an inspiration from another famed restaurant Silks House, also in Taipei. In fact, Silks House is just right across the street from Ad Astra, inside the Regent hotel, one other highly recommended restaurant to try in the area.
When making chawamushi, normally you would add some water or light stock to the egg mixture. Remember we just had kinki fish beforehand? So the Chef use the remaining bones to make the stock then infused that to the chawamushi here.
Our upcoming wine...wanna be -
It's actually our next non-alcoholic pairing, but stored in a wine bottle and even came with a surreal wine label of its own.
Look closer and you'll spot something interesting. First is Domaine Ad Astra, that one is easy. Then the appellation nakayama contrôlée. Nakayama is the district name where Ad Astra located, so the restaurant used that and put it on the label. I wonder how many diners catch that?
A5 wagyu steak, served with champagne vinegar flavored avocado purée -
Not much wow factor but it's good, just as one would expect a high quality steak cooked perfectly from a skilled Chef.
Towards the end, some carbs to complete the meal -
Using rice from Japan's Yamagata prefecture, served with garlic butter, nori, arrowhead bamboo, fern, Chinese chive flower, shiitake, and more.
If you're looking for a wow factor, this rice dish will definitely give you that satisfaction. I didn't expect seeing century egg here, and it's coming from a foreign chef, that's even more astounding. And the best is that he used such local ingredient with strong characteristics extremely well. The distinct scent bound smoothly with sake foam on top. Together, creating a umami-packed flavor lingered throughout, no one will ever describe this century egg added dish as weird scented or funky. Just simply delicious.
I personally think the rice dish can stand on its own. But if you're opt for even more punches, Chef did prepare Japanese furikake-like condiment made with duck egg to sprinkle on top, or you can use house-made chili oil for a spicy boost.
Last mocktail pairing of the night -
The inspiration was drew from one of the classic cocktails Penicillin, the ginger part was kept, but other key ingredients have been replaced by juice and the scent from smoked longan wood.
I love how they also incorporate Ad Astra logo to the big squarish ice cube.
Moving on to dessert. We've got tea flavored ice cream served with blueberry and pine nut butter -
From there, we ventured to the main dessert. Torched papaya with sijichun oolong tea ice cream -
Taiwan is also known as the kingdom of fruits, and I would say our papayas are unquestionably one of the top fruits in the world. The sweet scent is so dense, and the meat sometimes will just collapsed in your mouth with sweet juice flowing out.
So to take that precious papaya, perhaps a slight torch on the surface to further condensed the sugary note, then dotted with dried pineapple, elderflower, and more. It's like a petite garden right there.
Don't forget the sijichun oolong tea ice cream on the side. Served like a refreshing herbal note to balance-off the sweet elements from the papaya, you'll also find tea tree oil on the bottom to assist in that matter.
You think that might be the end? Nooooo, more desserts coming up.
The hot madeleines worth a special moment here and the flavors are quite unique too. They are made with brown butter and white miso. A combination of sweet and savory again. However, you can't really tell at all if the server didn't mention anything ahead. I guess the white miso is more like a hint, or even more so a smoother touch for the heavy butter.
To further enjoy the madeleines, you can dip them in pear jam for additional sweet fruity aroma.
There's no heavy-tasting nor slightly burdened feeling after dinner. You know like sometimes we get so sleepy or thirsty after a big meal. Take into consideration that we even had the 14 course experience, so it's actually quite nice to feel light and relaxing in the end.
And such comfort doesn't mean that we weren't full at all, it's just that all the dishes were well-calculated and well-balanced, I truly enjoyed my first try at Ad Astra. Chef Kevin Rose nicely use modern techniques combined with fresh ingredients, also incorporated some Asian ingredients with Japanese flair.
I also learnt that Chef actually create and substitute one new dish every week instead of swap out the entire menu seasonally. Such high frequency of changes means more in tuned with local's seasonal crop and ingredient supplies. That's one more enticing trait to me, only if getting another reservation can be done without much hassles.
Ad Astra currently holds one Michelin star status.
Ad Astra
No.23, Lane 45, Section 2, Zhongshan North Road,
Zhonshan District, Taipei, Taiwan
Restaurant website: https://www.adastra.com.tw/
Facebook: Ad Astra Facebook
Online reservation: inline reservation for Ad Astra
Opening hours:
Wednesday through Sunday
First round 5:30 p.m. ~ 7:30 p.m.
Second round 8:00 p.m. ~ 10:30 p.m.
Chef's menu full-on 14 course starting from 5:30 p.m. ~ 6:30 p.m.
Monday and Tuesday off
Extended reading:
Ad Astra blog review in Chinese
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